Monday, 29 April 2024

Channel Country blooms as floodwaters transform outback desert, stunning tourists.

Extract from ABC News 

ABC News Homepage


Behind the bar of the Betoota Hotel, Robert "Robbo" Haken is this year fielding a common question from tourists passing through on their way to Birdsville. 

 "They're all just [asking], 'Where's the desert?'," he said.

"They can't see the desert because all the green is growing over the sand."

Through a doorway, Robbo Haken sitting behind the bar at the Betoota Hotel.
Robbo Haken bought the Betoota Hotel in 2017.()

Famously "red dirt country", Queensland's far west is instead a blanket of vivid green, the result of months-long flooding through the desert.

The dusty single-lane highway into Birdsville, 1,500 kilometres west of Brisbane, is lined with lush grass, dotted with yellow and purple wildflowers.

Yellow flowers growing next to cracked red claypan.
Yellow and purple wildflowers scatter the desert.()

For Mr Haken, it's a special sight.

" I don't think you're ever gonna see it quite as pretty as what it is at the moment," he said.

"It's just something totally different from what we're used to seeing."

Earlier this year, ex-tropical cyclone Kirrily drenched the state's north, with water travelling hundreds of kilometres south to the Channel Country towards the Kati-Thanda Lake Eyre basin in South Australia.

Rivulets in the channel country as seen from the sky.
The best view of the Channel Country is from the sky.()

Birdsville, a town of 110 in the Channel Country — where the Northern Territory, Queensland and New South Wales borders meet — became an inland sea.

And when the water receded, the landscape bloomed.

An ariel view of the highway into Birdsville with floodwaters on one side and bright green on the other.
The highway to Birdsville from Windorah.()

Tourists 'flabbergasted'

Behind Birdsville's iconic red sand dunes, the horizon slowly changes into a wetland.

Big Red Tours owner Alex Oswald said tourists were "flabbergasted."

A tour bus parked on a red sand dune with people standing around and the sun setting in front.
Alex Oswald started his tour business around three years ago.()

"I've never seen so many pelicans," he said.

Scenic photos taken around Birdsville and in the Channel Country, far west Queensland.
There are squadrons of pelicans at the old Diamantina Crossing at Birdsville.()

"It doesn't go hand in hand with [the desert] that we've got pelicans flying over the top and having a good feed on the Diamantina Crossing that's usually dry.

"If you fly over the area, it's just a massive carpet of green."

Seen through the window of a plane, a rivulet of water running through a vast expanse of greenery.
The view through the window of a plane.()

Tourist Brie Dickson said it was a different picture to the one she had imagined.

"It's a bit of mixture between red and green, which is really cool to see, two contrasting colours like that," she said.

Brie Dickson sits in the front seat of her landcruiser with her brown dog peeking through the back.
Ms Dickson has been on the road since 2022.()

"It definitely would have been less green in my mind."

Pilot Jonathon Rae has the best view in Birdsville as he flies tourists over the flourishing country.

"It's just exploded with colours," he said.

Jonathan Rae beside a cesna 210 plane doing a safety debrief with tourists.
Jonathan Rae is back for his second season as a pilot in Birdsville.()

"All the dormant seedlings that lay underneath that cracked claypan just explode to life, so you get this abundance of colours, greenery, wildflowers shooting through."

From the air, the meandering pathways of floodwaters glisten in the rising sun.

"You wouldn't believe that it was in the middle of the desert," Mr Rae said.

"You really have to see it from above to believe it."

A change of fate for graziers

While the sights are not always this pretty, seasonal flooding in the outback is not out of the ordinary, with tourism and agriculture depending on the annual inflows.

Despite the flooding, Diamantina remains one of the only two drought-declared shires in the state. 

A cow stands by a body of water and bright green grass.
Cattle around Birdsville are fat on feed.()

Before the flood, fifth-generation grazier Kerry Morton was in the process of destocking his cattle on Roseberth Station from 8,000 to 5,000.

"Now I'm sitting sweet," he said.

"I'm hoping [the feed] will hold me for maybe eight months."

Mr Morton has seen floods and droughts in the outback, but said it was still "nerve-wracking" to watch water fill the distant horizon.

A side profile of Kerry Morton's face.
Kerry Morton runs Roseberth station with his father.()

"It behaved a bit like 2019 where it came through as a wall," he said.

"I thought it was going to come through quick but it actually travelled forward and slow."

Roads damaged but tourists welcome

While the floodwaters are a blessing for tourism and agriculture, they have been a headache for the local council.

Diamantina Shire mayor Francis Murray said the water damage to the roads was "in the millions".

He was aware there was a ticking clock on these repairs with the tourist season commencing this month.

Grass either side of a dirt road, blue sky and a bird flying across.
Lush greenery lines tracks around Birdsville.()

"It's important that we get those roads sorted before the influx of caravans," he said.

But according to the mayor, the region looks "as good as you'll see".

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