Monday, 21 November 2022

Kherson streets are revived after months of war, but residents still feel the impacts of Russia's occupation.

 Extract from ABC News

Posted 1
People hug Kherson
People hug upon the arrival of the first train from the capital Kyiv.(AP Photo: Sam Mednick)

A week since the southern Ukrainian city of Kherson was liberated, residents can't escape reminders of the terrifying eight months they spent under Russian occupation.

People are missing. There are mines everywhere, closed shops and restaurants, a scarcity of electricity and water, and explosions day and night as Russian and Ukrainian forces battle just across the Dnieper River.

Despite the hardships, residents are expressing a mix of relief, optimism, and even joy — not least because of their regained freedom to express themselves at all.

A man kisses a soldier in uniform on the cheek.
Ukraine liberated Kherson more than one week ago, and the city’s streets are revived for the first time in many months.(AP Photo: Efrem Lukatsky)

Pharmacist Olena Smoliana was overjoyed when recalling the day Ukrainian soldiers entered the city.

"Even breathing became easier. Everything is different now," she said. 

Kherson's population has dwindled to about 80,000 from its prewar level near 300,000, but the city is slowly coming alive.

A plume of bright orange smoke.
The city's population shrunk when Russia invaded. (AP Photo: Roman Hrytsyna)

Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy triumphantly walked the streets on Monday, hailing Russia's withdrawal as the "beginning of the end of the war".

People are no longer afraid to leave home or worried that contact with Russian soldiers might lead to a prison or torture cell.

They are gathering in city squares, adorned with blue and yellow ribbons on their bags and jackets, to recharge phones, collect water and to talk with neighbours and relatives.

A woman kneels on the road as a car passes.
People no longer sit in their homes in fear of meeting the Russians. (AP Photo: Efrem Lukatsky)

Yulia Nenadyschuk, 53, hunkered down at home with her husband, Oleksandr, since Russia's invasion began but is now in town everyday. 

"If we survived the occupation, we will survive this without any problems," she said. 

She said the worst deprivation was the lack of freedom to be yourself, which was like being in a "cage".

"You couldn't say anything out loud, you couldn't speak Ukrainian," Mr Nenadyschuk said. 

"We were constantly being watched, you couldn't even look around."

Two soldiers in front of a sign which reads "Kherson region"
Two Ukrainian defence forces members stand next to a sign reading "Kherson region".(AP: Bernat Armangue)

Residents of Kherson talk about the "silent terror'' that defined their occupation, which was different than the devastating military sieges that turned other Ukrainian cities such as Mariupol, Sievierodonetsk, and Lysychansk to rubble.

Russian forces entered Kherson in the early days of the war from nearby Crimea, which Moscow illegally annexed in 2014, and quickly took over the city.

The city was the only regional capital Moscow captured after the invasion began on February 24.

A soldier signs a Ukraine flag draped around a child
A Ukrainian defence force member signs a Ukrainian flag to a resident in Kherson, southern Ukraine.(AP: Bernat Armangue)

People mostly communicate in Russian in Kherson.

Ms Smoliana said early on in the war, some residents were tolerant of neighbours who sympathised with Russia, but there was a palpable shift during the occupation. 

"I'm even ashamed to speak Russian," she said.

"They oppressed us emotionally and physically."

Many people fled the city, but some just disappeared.

People crowd around piles of clothes.
Residents search among clothes donations at a distribution point in downtown Kherson.(AP Photo: Bernat Armangue)

Khrystyna Yuldasheva, 18, works in a shop across the street from a building the Russian police used as a detention centre and where Ukrainian officials are investigating allegations of torture and abuse.

"There is no one here anymore," she told a woman who recently came by looking for her son.

Other people sought to leave, but couldn't.

"We tried to leave three times, but they closed all possible exits from the city," Tetiana, 37, who did not want to be identified by her last name, said.

A man reaching up a billboard scrapping off a sign
A local resident removes the Russian flag from a billboard in central Kherson.(AP: Efrem Lukatsky)

While people were euphoric immediately after the Russian retreat, Kherson remains a city on hold.

The Russian soldiers left a city devoid of basic infrastructure water, electricity, transportation and communications.

Many shops, restaurants and hotels are still closed and many people are out of work.

Residents into town this past week by truckloads of food that arrived from Ukrainian supermarket chains or to take advantage of internet hotspots that were set up.

A crowd of people with their hands reaching up.
Residents gathering at an aid distribution point receive supplies in downtown Kherson.(AP Photo: Bernat Armangue)

Russian products can still be found in small shops that survived through occupation.

The city is still adorned with banners touting Russian propaganda like "Ukrainians and Russians are a single nation," or that encourage Ukrainians to get a Russian passport.

Some Ukrainians curse out loud when they walk past the remnants of war.

A destroyed brick building
Ammunition boxes lay outside a destroyed school on the outskirts of Kherson.(AP: Bernat Armangue)

The humiliating Russian retreat did not end the sounds of war in Kherson.

About 70 per cent of the wider Kherson region is still in Russian hands.

Explosions are heard regularly, although locals are not always sure whether they are from the mine-removal work or from clashing Russian and Ukrainian artillery.

On Saturday evening, two missiles struck an oil depot in Kherson, the first time a depot was hit in the city since the Russians withdrew, according to firefighters.

Firefighters said the Russians stole fire trucks and ambulances as they retreated, leaving local authorities scrambling for resources to respond to attacks.

"There was a strong explosion," Valentyna Svyderska, who lives nearby, said.

"We were scared, everyone was scared … because this is an army that is at war with the civilian population."

Earlier in the day, people excitedly waited for the first train to arrive in Kherson since the early days of the invasion.

Two people hugging next to a train.
Mykola kisses his wife Lyudmila upon her arrival on the first train from the capital Kyiv.(AP Photo: Sam Mednick))

Mykola Desytniakov, 56, had not seen his wife since she left for Kyiv, Ukraine's capital, with their two daughters in June.

Mr Desytniakov said he had stayed behind to take care of his ailing parents. 

He held a single rose and as he peered anxiously over the platform.

"She will scold me, she doesn't like flowers," he said. 

"But I will give them to her anyway."

Ludmila Olhouskaya went to the station anyway to show her support.

"This is the beginning of a new life," the 74-year-old said, wiping off tears of joy.

"Or rather, the revival of a former one."

Several people stand around a power generator charging their phones
People charge their phones, try to connect to the internet and make phone calls on central square.(AP: Efrem Lukatsky)

A major obstacle to bringing people back to Kherson, and to the rebuilding effort, will be clearing all the mines the Russians placed inside offices and around critical infrastructure, according to the Ukrainian Ministry of Internal Affairs.

"De-mining is needed here to bring life back," deputy internal affairs minister Mary Akopian said.

Kherson has a bigger problem with mines than any of the other cities Ukraine reclaimed from the Russians because it had been under occupation for the longest period, she said.

Ms Akopian estimated it would take years to completely clear mines from the city and the surrounding province.

people standing by a river with large plastic bottles
People collect water from a Dnipro river in Kherson.(AP: Efrem Lukatsky)

Already, 25 people have died clearing mines and other explosives left behind.

Before retreating, Russian soldiers looted from stores, businesses and museums.

The Ukrainian government estimates that 15,000 artefacts have been stolen from museums in the Kherson region and taken to Crimea.

"There is, in fact, nothing there," Kyrylo Tymoshenko, a senior official in Mr Zelenskyy's office, wrote after a trip to the Kherson region.

"The Russians killed and mined and robbed all cities and towns."

Despite the ongoing fighting nearby, people in Kherson feel confident enough about their safety to ignore air-raid warning sirens and gather in large numbers on the streets — to greet each other and to thank Ukrainian soldiers.

Like many residents, the Nenadyschuks do not wince when they hear the explosions in the distance, and they are loathe to complain about any other difficulty they face.

"We are holding on," Ms Nenadyschuk said.  

"We are waiting for victory. We won't whine.

"All of Ukraine," Mr Nenadyschuk  said. "Is in this state now."

AP

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